Film Frenzy

It’s hard to believe that there are only four weeks remaining in this program. It definitely doesn’t help when there has been so much going on. For this week’s blog post, I want to use the space to update y’all and show you what’s been going on instead of blabbering on. I’ve taken too many pictures to know what to do with, so they’ll likely serve more than words today. I promise this isn’t a cop out, pictures are just better.

To start, here are some of my film pictures from the photography trip a couple weeks ago that I recently got back…

Samuel H. Boardman State Park. Can’t get enough of that place. This specific area is called the (not so) Secret Beach. This is where we saw the bait ball.

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Thunder rock cove, featuring some Columbia lilies.

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A blur but a beaut. Erik, Justin, and Dustin on the way to catch the sunset at Thunder Rock cove.

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Sunset on the other side of Thunder Rock cove.

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Port Orford.

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And here are some film pictures from the bright and early Fourth of July Bandon trip. On a hike a few days later, I tripped over literally nothing and one of my cameras popped open. I was devastated, because there were only two pictures left, so the entire roll was exposed. That is the risk you must take with film. I really need to learn to not be so emotionally dependent on my pictures turning out because half the fun is realizing you may not get anything. That’s fun, right? Right?

Anyway, somehow most of the roll turned out. I have no idea why. Thank you light gods. Look and these DIVINE leaks:

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Some kitchen sink photos…

Rogue River-Siskiyou National Forest.

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Bastendorff beach.

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Finally, Andy visited me from CA this weekend. It was a blast showing him all of my favorite places and eating lots and lots of food. And ice cream. (The rest of these are digital).

Gorgeous and windy hikes with Rowland and Chris at Blacklock Point, the Sixes River, and Cape Blanco, the westernmost point in the contiguous United States besides Cape Alava, WA.

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Getting soaked!

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More south coast beauty.

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stacks

That’s all for now. I shall be sending four more rolls to the land of developing later this week. Stay tuned.

Exasperation, experience, and echinoderms

A few weeks ago I wrote my blog post all about how scientists are people too. In general, what I was trying to highlight was how the people who conduct research and write scientific material have personalities and enjoy relaxing just as much as the next person. It seems poignant this week to revisit that theme. Scientists laugh, cry, eat, sleep, and so on and so forth. We are human, and if there is anything that can be said with absolute certainty about humans, it’s that not a single one of us is perfect. We have setbacks, make mistakes, and experience frustration. In fact, mistakes, setbacks, and frustration could be steps of the scientific method.

It started with SMURFing two weeks ago. If you recall, SMURFing involves collecting juvenile fish in artificial habitats to help understand habitat usage in Oregon’s Marine Reserves. Currently, we have SMURFs in two Reserves, Otter Rock Marine Reserve near Newport (my home base), and Redfish Rocks Marine Reserve near Port Orford (~3 hours south). Every week, we alternate between sampling at Otter Rock and Redfish Rocks. Two weeks ago, it was a Redfish Rocks outing. At Redfish Rocks, we collaborate with a local team of urchin divers, who collect the fish from the SMURFs using their boat, then hand them off to us. All we have to do is drive the 3 hours south to Port Orford, pick up the fish, rinse some gear, and head home. Much easier than taking our own boat all the way down there. Port Orford has really embraced its Marine Reserve, and many citizens have taken advantage of opportunities to partner with scientists to aid research studying it. It’s a great setup where all parties benefit.

Anyways, two weeks ago, I hopped in the car with Maddy (REU) and Neal (fellow Sea Grant Scholar) to head to Port Orford and pick up the fish. Our first task was to drop off a bit of equipment to the urchin divers before they departed so they could repair one of the SMURF moorings. Unfortunately, construction traffic meant we arrived just a few minutes early, and our collaborators had already left the docks. Oh well, minor setback. It just meant we had a few hours to kill while we waited for the SMURFers to return. Port Orford isn’t a bad place to kill a few hours. It’s a beautiful little town on the south coast with a brilliant ocean view. We spent our time snorkeling in a protected cove and feasting at a local diner, then returned to the docks to meet the SMURFers as they returned.

SMURF season is in a bit of a lull right now, as normally occurs in the middle of the summer. If you want to understand why, read the latest blog post I authored for the Oregon Marine Reserves website here, but basically we weren’t expecting many fish. We got zero fish and a huge serving of bad news. Two of our moorings and two other SMURFs had disappeared. This is bad for a couple reasons. Firstly, it meant that we were sampling with just four of our eight SMURFs. Who knows if the other four SMURFs we lost would have had fish in them. Secondly, SMURFs aren’t the most high tech scientific equipment, but that doesn’t mean they’re cheap. Replacing moorings requires new lines, buoys, shackles, flags, anchors, and more, as well as time out on a boat to get them in the water.

Readying new moorings for deployment!

As far as setbacks go, this was a pretty major one for SMURFing. Maddy, Neal, and I had no choice but to retreat to Newport empty-handed; seven hours of driving and all we had to deliver was bad news. I was struck by how well it was received. To be clear, no one was happy to hear our tale, but there was no finger-pointing, despairing, or pity parties. All the scientists heading the project were only focused on fixing the problem. The very next day we were building new moorings, which will be deployed this week. Bad things happen in science, as they do in life. My mentors here in Oregon have obviously experienced adversity in their projects before and have learned how to handle it. For me, it was a great learning experience.

Just a few days later, I had another learning experience. The end of July tide series had some of the lowest low tides of the summer, which made it perfect for intertidal sea star surveys. I’ve basically been put in charge of the sea star surveys which is a responsibility I was eager to shoulder. I’d been planning the July outings for weeks, checking tide tables, rallying volunteers, gathering equipment, and so on. When the time finally came, I was pretty excited to make it happen. I scheduled the first survey for a Sunday morning at 6 AM. I spent Friday and Saturday camping with my fellow Sea Grant Scholars for our mid-summer check-in (awesome experience, I’ll get back to that later), and returned a day early from the trip to do the sea star survey. Unfortunately, while I returned from the camping trip, my office keys did not. I left them in the glove compartment of my friends’ car so that I wouldn’t lose them… brilliant. This realization struck me on the way home and I made some frantic calls to try and borrow keys from other Marine Reserves members, but, being a Saturday night, my last ditch efforts were fruitless. With no way to get into our building to pick up my equipment or the keys to the truck, we had no choice but to cancel Sunday’s survey. I was not a happy camper. Really, I wasn’t a camper at all because I had left my camping trip early to do this survey. All of my hard work and planning undone by a tiny mistake, which had actually been a precautionary measure!

Some super small sea stars!

My intrepid group of volunteers.

Neal getting dirty for some sea star science.

Thankfully, my anger was tempered by my mentor’s experience. “This stuff happens all the time in fieldwork,” she told me on the phone. Mistakes happen. Scientists, including myself, are very much human. The very next day, after collecting my keys, we were out in the field in the early morning, surveying sea stars. It was great. All of my volunteers came through and performed admirably in the intertidal, we found a ton of stars, and rewarded ourselves with a gigantic breakfast afterwards. It was enough to help me forget the frustration of the previous day.

The past few weeks included some setbacks, but they were also some of the best ones of the summer. As mentioned earlier, we spent on weekend camping with the rest of the Oregon Sea Grant scholars. Half of the scholars are housed here in Newport, so I know them pretty well. The other half live on the south coast, so we hadn’t seen them since literally day one at orientation. To be honest, I was a little apprehensive about the trip. What if our two groups didn’t get along? Two days in the woods could feel a lot longer than that. Fortunately though, the other scholars are cool kids. We spent a long time hanging around the campfire, wading in streams, and catching up on the last few months. Overall, an awesome trip, and I’m glad we got to spend some good times with the south coast folks. Hopefully we’ll get to meet up again the next time I head down to Port Orford.

Other highlights of the last two weeks included my second SMURFing outing. My first time out was perfectly calm. This outing was the perfect opposite. High winds meant big waves, and big waves meant a bumpy boat ride. I may have slightly realigned my spine bouncing up and down out on the ocean, but it was a cool experience. Now I can honestly say I’ve experienced the Oregon ocean.

#nofilter

Additionally, just yesterday I got back from camping at Crater Lake National Park! Another Oregon bucket list item, crossed off. The place is absolutely gorgeous. You could stare at those blue waters for hours, completely mesmerized. We circumnavigated the lake by car and stopped off to do a couple of hikes, including one to the peak of the tallest mountain in the park, which has a stellar view of the lake. It was an awesome experience, truly. Finally, I finished off the past two weeks last night by partaking in one truly human experience that unites us all, watching Game of Thrones.

Winter is coming. But for now I’ve got four more weeks of summer at least.

S’mOregon

Some of my more loyal readers may have noticed that I haven’t posted in awhile- and that’s ’cause I’ve been too busy having fun in the Oregon wilderness! That, and there’s no service in the woods.

The past couple weeks have been very eventful: the mid-summer check in and practice presentation for Sea Grant, 2 camping trips in 2 weekends, UAS surveys in Tillamook (more travel), and experimental design back at the Charleston ODFW office.

The mid-summer check in was basically a run through of our projects thus far, presented in front of the other scholars and some Sea Grant admins. I went way over the allotted time (oops, will fix for the final talk) but was proud to share all that I’ve been involved in with my 2 mentors at ODFW. It was also cool to hear what everyone else had been up to. The provided lunch and bbq that followed weren’t a bad touch either.

That Friday we headed inland as a group to spend the weekend camping somewhere east of Corvallis (I still don’t exactly know where we were, all I cared about was that it was hot enough to wear a tank top and shorts- finally). We spent some quality time together setting up camp- shout out to Julia for always sharing her tent, chillin in the creek, and eating around the camp fire. I think we all learned new details about each other, which is always cool when you’re dealing with people who come from all different backgrounds. The highlight of the trip was on Saturday, when we took the highly anticipated hike to the Tamolitch blue pool. It was way overpopulated for my taste, but at first sight of the water I understood why. Crystal clear and intensely blue, the pool sat below a series of cliffs perfect for plunging into the freezing and astonishingly deep water below. Some scholars partook in the 70 ft jump in the 30-something degrees fahrenheit water, I however opted for the quick leap off the edge and scramble out as quickly as possible. Though beautiful, that water was bitchin cold. But I’m glad to say I did it, as did all but one of the other scholars.

Bluey blue of the blue pool

Summer scholars at the blue pool!

Getting back into the work week after an exciting and tiring weekend wasn’t easy, but on Monday we packed up and head out to Tillamook to run unmanned aerial system (UAS) surveys of the tide flats the next morning. The UAS consists of a UAV (we don’t use “drone” but, yeah a drone) that has been programmed with a flight plan and fitted with a camera. There’s a lot more background that goes into the flight plan, like the type of camera, the height the vehicle will fly at, etc, but this is not my forte. My job was to assist the ground team with setting ground control points and recording their gps positions. The vehicle flies over these points for scaling purposes and to later on put all of the images together to form one solid view. We also did assessments of quads within the flight path, since the whole point of the day was to compare human surveys with what the drone’s image captures. If the UAS surveys can be as efficient as having people on the ground, using this method could save a lot of man hours (aka money) and potentially help the crew avoid safety risks associated with working in mud and on the water.

Tony and I setting GCPs (ground control points) for the UAV

 

Me being a pack mule for flags and quads

After returning from Tillamook I rejoined Joe and Scott in Charleston to begin planning a quantitative and qualitative survey of the native Olympia oysters, Ostrea lurida, around Coos Bay. There had been previous work done for quantitative measurements, with methods in place for estimating abundance at a site. What I am now more involved with is the qualitative methods for being able to walk onto a site and quickly assign it a ranking, with the ranks signifying varying abundances of oysters. Together Scott, Joe and I discussed the best way to go about this in a timely manner, since we had decided to do about 100 sites, and I have been tasked with writing up the methods section. I am excited at the idea of possible getting mentioned in a publication of this study. Here we are searching for the oysters on their most common habitat, rip rap:

Oyster surveys

This past weekend included a trip to Crater Lake but that deserves more attention than a mention at the bottom of this post.

With that, I sign off.

Can’t believe its already almost August!

Best,

Katie

 

 

Summer Sampling

A beautiful day on the Wilson River.

The Tillamook area is quite beautiful. There are moments during a busy day of sampling when I suddenly forget what I am doing and feel the blue sky, beautiful water, birds and the breeze. This is a job that actual people have, and that I could have some day too. It’s not a bad life.

I am currently incubating a batch of water samples taken earlier this week in lower Tillamook Bay. This incubation is special because I decanted the samples in the BOD bottles within hours of collection, rather than keeping the samples in a cooler over night before filling the BOD bottles. The respiration rates from the two previous incubations show significant variation by geographic location, and it will be interesting to see how the 4 most recent samples I took look in comparison with the others, and if the rates are still consistent with this batch and storage hasn’t influenced the rates from the previous incubations. My mentor Cheryl has been mapping them in ArcGIS and it is neat to see the data depicted visually on the map of the Bay. It affords a completely different sense of the data than a bar graph or scatter plot.

On our last trip to Tillamook, we employed a hover craft to get around. It sounds fun, and it is, sort of. Mostly, it’s a nail-biting, loud and wet ride. The most redeeming aspect of the hover craft is that it makes who ever is in it look really cool. I had the pleasure of spotting a van on the highway come to a complete stop to stare at us as we were heading back to the boat-launch. Of course, minutes later, we almost nose-dived and crashed when the tail wind started giving us a little too much help, and I had to scramble on top of the ice chest to put as much weight on the rear of the craft and get sprayed with water. That did not look cool. Good thing the van wasn’t watching.

My next trip to Tillamook will involve assisting with the installation of rigging to secure an instrument package beneath a pier. The planning and design that has gone into this is significant, as are the challenges. There are cables, pulleys, huge bags of stones, and power tools involved. The trick will be in not getting smashed by the pier or boat, as the work must take place from a boat beneath said pier. I will also be collecting a time series of water samples to test for variation in respiration rates as the water changes with the tides.

I leave you with a couple pictures of the latest rig we have employed on water sampling trips for maximum efficiency.
Cheers!

Filtering water with the peristaltic pump.

Pumps make sampling fun!

Two Swell Weekends (fingers crossed for a third!)

Well I am extremely late on posting this but here’s a bit about my past two weekends, both which turned out to be a couple of the summer’s best so far. My experience with two professional photographers happened on that first weekend, July 13-16, while the second weekend (July 20-23) was highlighted by the Mid-Summer Camping trip.

 

Friday morning (7/14) started early at 4:45am. Catie and I drove down to Secret Beach in Brookings and met up with Dave Lacey of South Coast Tours LLC where we were joined by Holly and Scott, two experienced paddleboarders and soon to get some experience in modeling, and later Justin and Erik. Justin and Erik arrived later than anticipated because the lighting wasn’t as great as they had hoped (it was extremely foggy). They rolled up fashionably late in their fancy SUV, drinking their fancy Dutch Bros Coffee. They were obviously hot shot professionals. Well, it turns out these hot shot professionals were some of the nicest, coolest people you could find in Oregon. Erik was a big, bearded, refreshingly sarcastic whale-lover who’s casualness about his life made for great conversation and even greater stories. Justin was a very tall, very young-looking father who just fit the role of the quintessential photographer. I could tell his role as a father was imbedded in his identity when he told me that I made him nervous when I got too close to the cliff edge. Both men were funny, kind, and patient, and they both answered the disgustingly numerous questions I had for them about photography. They definitely made the weekend special, that’s for sure. Anyways, after a respectfully reserved introduction not typical of myself, we stood around discussing possible options due to the poor lighting. The conversation was casual and light-hearted, and I remember laughing a fair amount despite the lack of sleep and caffeine. We ended up deciding that paddle-boarding was still an option so we made the trek down to Secret Beach, which I should mention is soooo much easier going down than up. At the beach, Holly, Justin, Dave, and Justin hopped on the paddleboards while Catie and myself stayed around shooting on the shore with Erik. I can’t remember much about those conversations or what we did exactly but I remember feeling content – it was the earliest morning I’d had since coming to Oregon and I was spending it on this peacefully eerie foggy beach with a friend and a stranger, just taking photos. Only thing that could’ve made it better would have been a cup of coffee in my hand, but hey I was chill without it.

Morning Paddle-boarding at Secret Beach

After the beach shoot, we all were starving so we headed to a place to get brunch. Lemme tell you, brunch was a BLESSING. It is rare for me to finish everything off my plate but I did not leave a single thing on my plate (okay I left a piece of toast but that doesn’t really count). It was just nice to have a cup of coffee, a hot plate, and a good amount of laughs with all these chill new friends. Even though I was slowed down with all this food in me, the day did not slow down. Immediately, we drove inland to the Chetco River in hopes of clearer skies (we were successful!). We got to a place called Elephant Rock right on the river and there we cliff jumped into the perfectly temped water while Erik and Justin constantly snapped photos. After that we finally got a bit of a break while Erik and Justin headed back to their hotel to download their photos so Catie and I headed to the beach. While I took a nap underneath the still grey sky Catie walked around taking photos of birds. Guys, I was pooped. Like seriously so damn tired. I was the driver that day and after an early start, late coffee, a fat meal, and cliff jumping I was ready to rest eternally in Nap Heaven. And let me tell you, that was one of the best naps I’ve had in a loooong minute. Not only was I dreaming and hallucinating like crazy but when I woke up an hour later the sky was completely sunny! It was a night and day difference from when my eyes closed and when they opened, and it was a sight for sure. The sun was blazing down, people were walking up and down the beach, and the birds were flying about, enjoying themselves as they dipped in and out of the water. Nothing else to say except that it was beautifully perfect.

Elephant Rock on the Chetco River

After checking out the dead Harbor Seal, Catie and I met up with the gang and we walked along the pier, checking out a restaurant or two, while Erik and Justin’s shutters sound all the while. During that time, we went to a restaurant/bar called Fat Irish where the beer is poured from the bottom of the glass. I couldn’t explain really how it’s done but it’s unique because this pouring method uses more of the beer within the keg than a standard pour method to a substantially significant percentage. Well, with that information we all had to have a beer (strictly for photography purposes of course). I got this beer called the Shark Bite and it was cider with Guinness. Dankness confirmed. After that Erik and Justin needed to break for dinner so we separated again. Dave, Catie, and I went back to Fat Irish and ate together. It was real nice to connect with these two individuals over cold beer and hot Rueben’s. I guess now’s as good a time as any to give a shoutout to Dave for being so hospitable and friendly and fun to Catie and I. Seriously without him this weekend would not have been as cheap, as enjoyable, let alone possible. So, Catie and I dipped out after dinner and we had about a half hour or so to kill before we had to meet up with Erik and Justin again so what do we do? Visit California, of course! Yup, we mobbed down that 101 and gave a quick “What’s good!” to the best place in the world (I’m sorry y’all but it’s true and we all know it). It was a weird mix of satisfaction and disappointment at knowing that I was the closest to home, family, and friends than I’d been in four weeks and that I wouldn’t be that close again for another six weeks.

*Welcome Home

Well Catie and I hoped back in the whip and we met up with Erik and Justin at Samuel Boardman State Park. On that cliff we all enjoyed the setting of the sun whilst snapping photos. But once the sun started making it’s way over the horizon everyone stopped taking photos. We all just stood there and stared silently. That’s the thing about sunsets, they’re religious. You’ve gotta be respectful of it. Well, the “work” day was all but done now that the light was gone so we said bye to Justin and Erik and made our way back up to Port Orford to start the process over again the next day….    

Well, I’ve rambled on plenty about the sweet stuff I experienced in just one day and I’m extremely blessed to say there have been many like that in the past two weekends so instead of writing novels for all these other dope days and decimating the number of followers of this blog I’m just going to write three bullet point highlights for each day. Hope this little teaser will be enough to provide some context as to what the overall vibe and take away was for the day.  

Photographers Justin, Erik, and myself

Thursday 7/13 (day before this Friday)

  • Did a morning run on the Battle Rock beach. Even took a couple of dips in the cold water.
  • Walked around town checking out shops. Bought my new favorite jacket for $3.50 and met a toothless 15 year old kitty named Olivia.
  • Hiked Humbug Mountain State Park with Catie and a photographer named Rowland and his wife Christie. Lovely people.

Catie, Rowland, and myself

sweet ole Olivia

Saturday 7/15

  • Paddle-boarded twice: Hunter Creek in the morning and Secret Beach in the evening. I went traversed a cave in a sea stack!
  • Climbed to a lowkey precarious rock to get a great view of Harris Beach State Park.
  • Drank a brew during a lil fishing escapade.

Thursday 7/20

  • Checked out Newport’s Bayfront with Julia and Catie. Super cute but where’s the wifi at?
  • Took a WONDERFUL 2 hour nap
  • Joined the North Coast Scholars and the REU’s for a bonfire on South Beach to send off a chill dude named Brady. Rode to and from the beach on the back of his pick up truck. It was special for sure.

Friday 7/21

  • Woke up early and did a yoga class with the K(C)atie’s and Julia, followed by a grandiose breakfast at PigNPancake.
  • Spent some much needed quality time with the other Scholars around the campfire.
  • Tried to go herping in the creek that night but I didn’t find any herps, just some big slugs, a sweet white moth, some odonata nymphs, crawdads, some petable fish, and soaked clothes.

Saturday 7/22

  • Cliff jumped into Tamolitch Blue Pool.
  • Checked out an awesome waterfall whose name I can’t remember.
  • Played Knock You Down by Keri Hilson in the car. It was lit.

Let’s Get Graphic

This week I had a grand realization ultimately leading me to entirely rethink my career path, and that’s only ONE of the many events over the past 7 days that has caused me to be a late poster yet again (apologies!)

What was this realization you ask? Well, I’ve decided I simply cannot sit at a desk for eight hours a day unless I’m doing something creative. Quite frankly I find myself going a bit stir crazy and questioning why I studied the social sciences to begin with. After really thinking about it I came to accept that although I may not go in the exact direction I expected to go with my degree, I don’t regret the field I studied at all. Knowing all that I do about the environment, agriculture, and society as a whole has very much shaped me as a person. I did go vegan so if anything it’s drastically changed my eating habits and I’ll mark that as a plus. I love food more than most things and my degree has only helped grow that love.

I came to this conclusion after working on the website for the King Tides Photo Initiative. And this may sound odd but I actually LOVED it. Let me explain.

http://www.oregonkingtides.net/

Being given the opportunity to redesign the oregonkingtides.net website confirmed that graphic design was something I need to allow myself to continue exploring after this internship. Most days I find being in an office very hard, but when I’m working on something creative I get lost in it. I knew I would probably go back to school at some point but just didn’t know what for. I am now enrolling in a few graphic design courses back home and hope to eventually find a career that ties everything together for me.

The content of the website is still a work in progress but it has definitely improved! I now have a renewed excitement and hope to take this project to a new level in the next 5 weeks.

Meetings and Mexican Food

On Wednesday the Newport office and myself (total of 4) hopped in the car to attend the Coastal Management Program’s monthly staff meeting in Salem. Most of the meeting was focused on picking a new logo for the program (which I obviously truly enjoyed) but I did have the chance to show everyone the new look to the website.

I also learned of a new application through ArcGIS called Survey123 that will help us collect the King Tides’ photos in a much more efficient and organized manner this year. After only one YouTube tutorial I was able to set up a mock collection form that we’ll be testing out this week. Keep an eye out for the next blog because I might as for y’all to try it!

On the way home we stopped and grabbed a bite to eat at a little burrito place. It was one of the first opportunities I had to chat with Matt and Dave, the two older men who work in my office, and I really enjoyed getting to know them

NANOOS

On Thursday Meg and I attended a workshop at the community college on NANOOS – the Northwest Association of Networked Ocean Observing Systems. Although I didn’t have much to offer to the conversation it was really interesting to learn about the software and what it could do. To my understanding everyone from biologists to fisherman use it to check water temperatures, buoy locations, tsunami danger zones and more. The learning curve seems steep but once one understands how to utilize all the information it really is a goldmine.

Inked

Once again I headed up to Portland for the weekend (that’s 3 out of 4 weekends now) to see some of my best friends from college and to FINALLY get my tattoo! I had been planning this for a while and looking forward to it since I arrived in Oregon. I really wanted to represent womanly strength.

I think the relationship between the moon and the ocean exhibit the same kind of quiet power women often do in the world. At the same time the ocean can be intense and mysterious as all of us women are in some way or another. The moon is also representative of my mother, we both feel very connected to it, and her being a marine biologist makes the whole beach theme even more significant. As exhausting as it was to sit for 5 hours straight being poked by a needle I am absolutely over the moon (pun intended) about it and excited for when I can wear real pants again.

Cheers to week 4 and art in all forms.

Fishes, forests, and philosophers

There’s that old saying that has been attributed to Confucius which goes “Choose a job you love, and you will never have to work a day in your life.” I don’t like it. For one, it probably wasn’t even Confucius who said it. A quick google of reveals that “choosing a job” wasn’t really an option back in Confucius’s day. But Ancient Chinese economic systems are waaaaay off topic. My real issue is with the content of the quote, not the one who said it. Unless you never hold a job and literally never work a day in your life, you’re going to work. Work doesn’t have to be a bad thing, though. I was reading a book recently (I can’t remember which book right now and it’s killing me) that talked about how the western world has created a division between “work” and “life” where “work” is some awful obligation we slog through just so we can live “life” during our time off. It sounds like a real bummer, honestly. I’ve experienced that with jobs in the past, but this summer so far has been different.

 

To be clear, I have worked plenty of days this summer, and it’s felt like work. For example, last Thursday I woke up at 5:00 AM, ate a meager breakfast, and prepared to go on a cold, windy boat ride and jump into frigid waters. That felt like work. I’m not going to pretend I had a smile on my face the whole time, because that would be a complete lie. Still, I did it, and at 6:15 AM I went out for my first SMURFing survey of the summer. Verdict? Awesome and totally worth it. If you’ve been reading this blog faithfully you may remember what SMURFing is, but I’ll give a refresher anyways.

 

SMURF: Standard Monitoring Unit for the Recruitment of Fishes. A 3 foot tall by 1 foot diameter cylinder of folded up plastic fencing which we suspend just below the surface of the ocean to serve as a habitat for fishes. Juvenile rockfish often settle (recruit) in shallow, nearshore waters before moving lower in the water column as they get older and larger. Here at ODFW we’re interested in how the rockfish utilize the shallow waters in Oregon’s Marine Reserves, so we have SMURFs deployed in and around two of the reserves collecting fish. Long-term, this project will inform our understanding of what effect the Marine Reserves are having on Oregon’s marine ecosystems. Every other week during the summer we (or our collaborators) collect fish from the SMURFs, count them, and measure them. Collecting the SMURFs is done by a team of two snorkelers off of boat in the wee hours of the morning. It’s sort of controlled chaos, really. First, the captain pulls you up close to the marker buoy and shouts the signal for you to disembark. You and your buddy then leap into the ocean, holding onto your equipment the best you can. Will (PhD student working on rockfish, and my snorkel buddy) carried the net for collecting the SMURF, while I carried a replacement SMURF. We hightail it over to the mooring, bag the old SMURF, clip the new one on, signal for the boat to return, and hightail it back to the ladder to check your catch.

SMURFing is glamorous work

All this is done while competing with Oregon’s infamously inhospitable oceans. I was lucky in that my first SMURFing outing was on a very calm day. This meant swimming and staying warm was a lot easier, but by no means easy. For the eight SMURFs we had to collect that morning, Will made all eight trips into the ocean while MaddY (his REU student) each served as his buddy four times. When it was all said and done, we collected just 15 fish. This was a pretty small haul, but not uncharacteristic for this time in the summer. For more details about the science of SMURFing, check out some of the posts I’ve written at oregonmarinereserves.com.

 

To summarize SMURFing and juxtapose it with Confucius’ quote, yes it part of my job, yes I loved it, and yes it was absolutely work. I didn’t spend all last week working though. In fact, my parents came to visit and I had mini-vacation! My folks flew in all the way from good old Ohio on Tuesday under the guise of delivering my wetsuit and weight belt. It was a good excuse for them to come see what the Pacific Northwest has to offer. During the week I’d spend my days at work while they bounced around Oregon’s coast, then I’d meet up with them in the evening to do some touristy things.

My uber-adventurous parents exploring the intertidal in style

For them it was vacation, for me it was like a working staycation I suppose. Then on the weekend we road-tripped down to the redwoods! Unreal. Absolutely unreal. If you’ve been to the redwoods you can understand what it’s like. If you haven’t, I’m sorry, because words and pictures are incapable of capturing what it’s like to experience those trees.

One of my best photos, still doesn’t do it justice

It’s not just their size that overwhelms you, it’s how they’ve controlled these entire forest ecosystems for millions of years. Redwoods are stunningly resistant to fire, water, drought you name it. When one is damaged, it begins to grow a new clone right out of the burl at its base. Some animals live their entire lives up in the canopy of the redwoods, including salamanders of all creatures! All the sword ferns, small trees, and young redwoods that make up the understory battle for the patch of sunshine created whenever a titan falls, literally growing over each other as they lean towards the light. It’s an incredible place for a young scientist, or anyone else for that matter. It certainly was an incredible place to my parents. The three of us were constantly on the go from one trail to another and we covered many more miles than I expected to, stopping frequently to stare in awe.

C for Clemens Family!

“Stopping frequently in awe” was the theme for the whole road trip to and from Northern California as well. The Oregon coast is an absolute gem of a drive. What could have been a 5 hour drive, we spread out over a day so we could stop and experience as much as possible. My parents loved it, I loved it. I was more than happy to show them around my neck of the woods for the summer.

 

At one point when we were stopped for a break during a hike in the redwoods, my mom asked me what I was pondering as I sat in silence. My response was “work,” which came as a bit of a surprise to them. Fairly, they didn’t think I should be stressing about my job while sitting in such an amazing place. But I wasn’t stressing about it, in fact I was more looking forward to what I have to do this week. It isn’t going to be a uniquely exciting work week, no SMURFing, but it is work that I know is going towards something that I really care about, and that’s what makes it worth it. I care about marine conservation just as much in the office as outside of it, so “work” and “life” aren’t mutually exclusive. This probably isn’t how it will always be in my career, but at this point I’m comfortable defying Confucius (or whoever it was) and saying that I go to my job every day and work, and I love it. Perhaps it’s because I’m accepting that all the tasks and early mornings are worth it in the long run. You might even say I’ve started to see the forest through the trees.

Geez. A “Confucius” quote to open and a redwoods analogy to close? I’m sorry. I just couldn’t help myself.

No Hurry in Curry

I cannot take credit for that phrase; unfortunately, as it is quite commonplace here in Curry County. As it should be, though – this place encourages a relaxed-yet-somehow-also-adventurous lifestyle with its numerous hiking trails, secret coves, breweries, thriving rivers, and gorgeous sunsets. As stated in my last post, Dustin and I are here staying at the Port Orford Research Station to shadow two photographers from Portland, Justin and Erik, as part of the South Coast’s media asset building project. South Coast expert Dave Lacey (owner of South Coast Tours) took us around to his favorite spots to partake in various outdoor activities for Justin and Erik to photograph. We essentially ended up being their outdoor recreation models while also shadowing them throughout the trip. It was a fantastic learning experience, as we got to ask them all the questions we liked about photography and the industry, equipment, freelance work, life, etc., all the while paddle boarding in the clearest creeks and over bait balls in the ocean, jumping off boulders into the Chetco river with steelhead fry swimming underneath us, catching newts, tide pooling, drinking local beer, and chasing sunsets. It was definitely one of the best experiences I was fortunate enough to have. I ALSO SAW A RIVER OTTER FOR THE FIRST TIME ON THE VERY FIRST DAY OF SHOOTING. The trip could’ve ended there and it would have been a-okay.

waterfall

Staying at the Research Station has been fantastic as well. There is something special about staying in a place that is primarily used by scientists, especially one on the coast near a marine reserve. To put it simply, this is the kind of thing I signed up for. For example, there are rockfish illustrations adorning the walls and books about Oregon coast hiking and marine biology filling the bookcase in my room. There’s also a frozen marbled murrelet in the freezer that has, according to Erik, been there waiting for an Audubon guy to pick it up since Erik was there last. Gross, but it honestly warms my heart. For science, right?

When expressing my interest in sperm whales, the station manager, Tom Calvanese (who is also a marine biologist, diver, rockfish researcher, and the Port Commissioner) lent me Bryant Austin‘s book, Beautiful Whale. Austin created the first ever high-resolution, life-sized composite images of humpback, sperm, and minke whales, and the book chronicles the dramatic story of how he did it.

spermwhale

I devoured that thing in one morning (okay, it’s relatively short, but still). I want to include a passage from the book here because it describes my sentiments about the species so precisely. When describing how it feels to meet the gaze of a whale within six feet, Austin says,

“It is disturbing, because this whale is challenging me to reevaluate our perceptions of intelligent, conscious life on this planet. And that which is challenging these perceptions may also disappear in our lifetimes. What compels me most of all is the thought of losing over five million years of evolving culture and communication in the largest brain ever to exist on Earth, and never to have understood it.” (He’s talking about sperm whales, whose brains are the largest of any creature and have been evolving for over five millions years). “Carl Sagan once said, ‘We are a way for the cosmos to know itself.’ We, being the self-aware cosmos, will lose a significant part of ourselves should we allow these creatures to go extinct.”

Tom also told me about a group of whale researchers who will be staying at the research station for the rest of the summer starting tomorrow. They will be tracking whales along the South Coast as part of a larger research project concerning whale excretion, prey, and ocean acoustics; I will hopefully get to meet them this summer. After seeing James Nestor’s Bioneers speech about Darewin and sperm whales a few months ago, I’ve been reading his book Deep and have been very interested in the creatures since. The plan is to someday become a free diver, join James and Darewin, communicate with the whales, and change the world. Just kidding. (But maybe). Also, sperm whales have learned to take sablefish (black cod) off of commercial long lines in the Gulf of Alaska and other places with their extremely dexterous jaws. This depredation is a huge problem for fishermen as black cod is an extremely marketable (and declining) species of fish, and it has caused significant economic loss for fishermen. Watch this eerie video of it happening. The clicks you hear are the whales.

The whales have begun to learn that the acoustics produced by the engine slipping in and out of gear while the fishermen haul the lines up mean that they get a free meal. Southeast Alaska Sperm Whale Avoidance Project is a group of scientists, fishermen, and fisheries managers working together to understand this issue and develop solutions to decrease the interactions while maintaining both whale populations and fisheries.

Being at the research station has been so enriching – learning about whales, getting to know the fellows next door at the Port Orford Sustainable Seafood office, receiving professional and project management advice from Tom (thanks Tom), running early on the beach, cooking delicious meals (thanks fully equipped kitchen), and posting up at sunset upstairs to catch the view.

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Above & below: the view from my room.

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We also got to know a BEAUTIFUL retired British couple who lives in Port Orford; Rowland is kindly donating some gorgeous wildlife photographs to our project. They took Dustin and I on a wonderful hike and they had us laughing the whole time while they lovingly bickered, told wild stories, and skillfully identified species of plants and insects.

I’d love to live here someday. I didn’t get the chance to see everything, but the people, the views, and Olivia the toothless cat at Tasty Kate’s were enough to get me hooked. Until next time, Port Orford! Here are some more pictures of the adventure (and four rolls of film in the near future. I don’t care what you say Rowly, film is better).

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seastar

paddles

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Above, left to right: Justin, Erik, Dustin.

sunset

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Above: Very tiny Justin, Dave, Mark, and Dustin.

This little intern went to the market

First off, let me say that farmer’s markets are one of my top three favorite things in life. I don’t know if it’s the good food, free samples, or variety of characters at the market, but the sun always seems to shine a little brighter at the farmer’s market, so it was about time that I gave the Newport one a whirl.

And I loved it. It was honestly bigger and better than I expected, with the highlights being: a lady selling grandma-sweaters with patches sewn on of cats, puffins, and the like, loads of sweet Oregon cherries, and a honey-vendor who not only sold honey but also some bomb honey mustard and honey barbeque sauce. He also educated me on something called Royal Jelly. It’s basically a paste made for the Queen Bee that he cited to have great health benefits and swore by it for helping him beat Stage 4 cancer! I love these kinds of interactions at farmer’s markets because you get to learn about and interact with people over your common love for food. Back in Los Angeles, there was a kombucha lady at the Brentwood farmer’s market who I would always look forward to seeing for her cheery attitude and funny stories.

I know farmer’s markets can get a bad reputation for being too expensive or bougie, but I find the value of these interactions and getting my food from local small-scale farms worth the price. Plus, the way I see it I would much rather spend my money on good food than new technological gadgets or the latest fashion trends.

Washed Up

I have spent an awful lot of time hunched over vats of acid washing bottles and syringes this week. Oddly, doing the dishes, whether with soap and water or 10% hydrochloric acid solution, is drudgery. The only excitement to be had was when my right glove began leaking. I expected the worst, but after rinsing with Milli-Q ultrapure water I was unharmed. I had the pleasure of throwing out the scary old gloves and donning a beautiful new pair that I can love and trust for the rest of the summer.

The experiment incubating pure water in plastic containers to look for an increase in the dissolved oxygen occurring as a result of leaching yielded interesting results. The 2 gallon ziplock bag showed quite a large increase in dissolved oxygen level in the ultrapure freshwater over several days. Unfortunately, the ziplock bag containing sterile seawater drained empty at some point during the incubation. The data on the logger from the drained bag showed a similar trend to the other bag, but the plot went wonky when the water started leaking. The five gallon carboys of pure water and sterile seawater showed much lower rates of leaching than the ziplock bags. Hmmm.

The glass BOD bottles are working out nicely. On Wednesday I went to Tillamook and collected water samples at low tide from several points in the bay that represent different mixing zones. I began incubating them on Thursday in BOD bottles. Temperature and light exposure have been difficult to control due to laboratory limitations, but wrapping the bottles in aluminum foil and storing them in a cooler in a dark room has helped keep them at a stable temperature and prevent light from triggering photosynthesis int he phytoplankton.

After 24 hours of incubation, we took oxygen readings and compared them to the oxygen levels in the water in the bay when the samples were taken. We noted significant decreases in oxygen, meaning the microbes were consuming oxygen at a rate that could be easily measured in a single day. This information answered key questions about the required size of bottle and length of incubation required to measure respiration rates in this environment. While biological oxygen demand has been measured in BOD bottles for many years and is a standard practice, measuring estuarine respiration rates in a complex system like Tillamook Bay is not the usual application. Knowing that we can use small samples of water and get results in a couple days is very helpful. If the oxygen decrease in the bottles levels off, it has been suggested that I add glucose to see if the microbes take off again and are carbon limited. Exciting!

Now I just need to prepare more BOD bottles. Back to the acid.