“Alas! that journals so voluminously begun should come to so lame and impotent a conclusion as most of them did! I doubt if there is a single pilgrim of all that host but can show a hundred fair pages of journal concerning the first twenty days’ voyaging in the Quaker City, and I am morally certain that not ten of the party can show twenty pages of journal for the succeeding twenty thousand miles of voyaging! At certain periods it becomes the dearest ambition of a man to keep a faithful record of his performances in a book; and he dashes at this work with an enthusiasm that imposes on him the notion that keeping a journal is the veriest pastime in the world, and the pleasantest. But if he only lives twenty-one days, he will find out that only those rare natures that are made up of pluck, endurance, devotion to duty for duty’s sake, and invincible determination may hope to venture upon so tremendous an enterprise as the keeping of a journal and not sustain a shameful defeat.”–Mark Twain, The Innocents Abroad.
I suppose if Mark Twain was around today, he would say the same about blogs, the modern day journal for travelers. Nevertheless, I will try to be somewhat more consistent in my entries…
Sarah and I have settled into our apartment in Mokotow, a district of Warsaw that’s far enough away from the center of the city to have some parks and relative slower pace, but close enough that we can get to the center in a few minutes on the Metro. The Metro entrance is a 2 minute walk from our door. In our neighborhood, within a few minutes walk, is a pharmacy, a bank, a wonderful vegetarian restaurant, a community garden, a Polish bookstore (as opposed to the English language bookstores scattered around town), and more grocery stores than one would think could be supported by the local populace, given how close together they are. The really big store is called Mokpol (a chain) although the one we shop at is small by comparison to U.S. stores. It has nearly everything we want, all crammed into a small space with barely enough room for two people to squeeze by each other in the aisles. We can even get a fair number of our specialty vegan foods there, like soy pate, rice milk, frozen vegan cutlets and soy salami. The variety of breads in Polish bakeries is astounding – and they are all delicious. Spelt bread is also available here, although it often includes wheat flour. There is a health food store not too far from us which sells 80% spelt bread as well as other things not available at the Mokpol.
But if we don’t want to go that far or just need a few items, there is a cluster of small shops near the metro entrance. This kind of cluster of shops is common throughout the city. It is best for fresh fruits and vegetables and very inexpensive. In addition to produce and some other groceries, there are several bakeries in the cluster, a cosmetics shop, a hardware store, meat and fish shops, and so forth. Also a Chinese restaurant and a kebab place that sells falafels (but I haven’t tried it out yet). Mind you, each of these shops is in a space about 8′ x 8′. I don’t know how the grocers can compete with each other – they appear to be identical in what they stock. Ditto with the bakers. Nevertheless, each seems to have its own clientele.
Classes finally started this past Monday afternoon. I teach for 3 hours with a 15′ break in the middle. First is Subject Analysis with 15 students, then E-books in Libraries with 17 students – although 10 students are taking both classes. I haven’t had much of a chance to really interact with the students, but they seem attentive and interested and actually laughh at my jokes. Most speak very good English. (I’ve learned enough Polish to ask for a few things in a store, but rarely understand the response.) I enjoyed this first week and am looking forward to the rest of the term.
My institute is already taking advantage of my presence. In addition to teaching, I have been lined up for a lecture to institute faculty in mid-November on a subject of my choice and arrangements are being made for me to speak at the Maria Sklodowska-Curie University in Lublin. I also have been asked to review a colleague’s paper to ensure the English is understandable. I think I’m going to be kept on my toes.
I need to get some other work done now, so perhaps I can fill you all in on additional aspects of life in Poland tomorrow!
Thanks for posting all this. I’m posting a comment to let you know how interesting this is, and also to let you know how reassuring it is to hear from you & Sarah. The details of food and classes and of Warsaw are all fascinating. Perhaps my comment can help combat the natural tendency described by Twain. But he didn’t have blogging or digital photos to wield. Photos would be great! Any photo, of a store or school or whatever! Certainly posting a photo is easier than everything else you are doing. If you are out of time, don’t try to record everything, just post a highlight, or a lowlight. BTW – the rains in Oregon have started.