I bought whole-milk fresh ricotta cheese on a whim because I had seen it used in low-carb and ketogenic diet recipes, but didn’t have a particular plan for it. With busy summer days it sat in the fridge, unopened, until finally I decided it was now or never. I knew Nora would eat just a small amount of ricotta at a time in a recipe, so I went looking for a way that all of us could enjoy it.

Raspberry-Pancetta Ricotta Tart

I found another great recipe from David Lebovitz: Herbed Ricotta Tart. Fabulous recipe for half of the ricotta. The adults at the table were satisfied, to say the least.

For Nora, I modified the ricotta mixture in his recipe just a bit by using all heavy cream instead of the whole milk, omitted the crust, and added some other fillings to make it Nora-friendly. Here we have Raspberry-Pancetta Ricotta Tart. The basic tart filling can be supplemented with whatever your kid will enjoy! The ratio is 2.12:1 and ~150 calories, so there is room to supplement a meal with Flacker and butter or other fat to reach the appropriate meal ratio.

Nutrition information for 1 serving of Raspberry-Pancetta Ricotta Tart. Analysis from www.caloriecount.com

Raspberry-Pancetta Ricotta Tart

50 g egg (1 large)
240 g (1 cup) Organic Valley Heavy Cream
213 g Galbani Ricotta Fresca
60 g pancetta
30 g raspberries

Combine the egg, cream and ricotta. Measure 50 g into a tart dish, or other small baking dish. Drop in pieces of raspberry. Break up the pancetta into smaller bits and drop into mixture. You want them near the top so they get a little crisp in the oven.

Bake at 400º F for 10-15 minutes, until the top is brown. It will be bubbly, so give it a few minutes to cool and solidify before serving.

You can also subtract 0.19 g of fiber for net carb calculations (is dropped from label when it gets that small).

1 recipe makes 10 servings. 10 servings is a lot, but the filling keeps in the refrigerator for about 1 week. The rest of the family can also enjoy this recipe–I did–twice!

As always, re-calcualte the recipe for yourself if you are using different brands. It’s one thing that I find very time consuming and frustrating about the diet–looking for or manually entering the nutrition information into the recipe analyzer tool that I use. But it’s absolutely necessary. These recipes and nutritional information are intended only as a guide.

Pick me a blueberry…
Under the bridge and over the dam
Looking for berries, berries for jam!
~Bruce Degen, Jamberry (1983)

Oregon’s Willamette Valley bursts with wonderful things to eat all summer long. We are so fortunate to live here. Every year, the kids and I go off on U-pick adventure, mostly for blueberries. We freeze them by the gallon for winter oatmeal toppings, muffins and pancakes. But I mostly make jam, normally at least 5 dozen 8-oz and 12-oz jars. We always have the makings for peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, although our consumption fell off greatly in the last year between Nora’s diet and Anders’ newfound love for hot lunch. This year we had around 2 dozen jars left by summertime, so I only made about 15 fresh jars of blueberry jam last week.

August 6, 2010. This is what a jam-making day looked like 2 years ago, pre-keto.

I feel like there is a homesteading pioneer woman (or a squirrel) inside of me, urging me to put aside enough food for winter. My family might not make it through the cool rainy days here in Oregon without my homemade jam to provide us with vitamin C and lift our spirits. It would have felt wrong to not make jam this year, so I took Anders out picking with friends for a day to gather all of the blueberries, and a few blackberries, to make our jam. Nora stayed home that day because surrounding her with blueberry bushes and not allowing her to eat them would be cruel and I did not want to closely supervise her (although she is amazing about not eating things). Anders is a super-picker and between the two of us, we can get enough blueberries for several batches of jam in a few hours of picking.

Nora stirring the berries for her jam.

Nora has been enjoying the fresh and frozen berries with meals (4 or 5 at a sitting), but I wanted I could make her some jam too. I always use a low-methyoxyl citrus pectin (brand name Pomona’s Universal Pectin, but I buy it in bulk at our co-op). It is sugar-free, preservative-free and uses calcium as the bonding agent, so recipes do NOT require sugar to gel (unlike typical pectin products). Instead of sugar, you add a bit of calcium citrate to the recipe (comes in the box or also available in bulk). Seemed like I should be able to make Nora some sugar-free jam, but I hit a roadblock. I couldn’t find any definitive nutrition information on the pectin. I saw references to it as a form of soluble fiber, but without specific numbers I did not feel comfortable factoring it into a recipe.

I went for the other jam option that I’ve heard about but never tried: gelatin-based freezer jam. It’s keto-genius! Berries are already low-carb when eaten alone, but for gelatin jam you add in a substantial amount of water and gelatin is all protein. No added carbs, and the carbs in the berries get diluted in a larger volume of food. The final product has fewer carbs-per-weight that the berries themselves, with all of the flavor and satisfaction of eating jam just like everyone else. Win-win-win!

And another big win–it’s easy and can be made in batches that store for a long time in the freezer. The only caveat is that once opened, you have to keep it refrigerated and use it fairly quickly (I would guess 1-2 weeks) because it does not have sugar to act as a preservative. Divide it into small containers–I used 8 oz jars. This goes for all low- or no-sugar jams like my usual homemade versions, so we are accustomed to using our small jars quickly. And your keto kid will like it so much, it won’t hang around long.

Nutrition information for 1 full batch (524 g) of mixed berry gelatin jam. Divide all amounts by 524 to get the per-gram breakdown and see blog post for calculations. Nutrition information from www.caloriecount.com

Mixed Berry Gelatin Jam

70 g Blueberries
70 g Strawberries
70 g Raspberries
70 g Blackberries
1 envelope Knox Unflavored Gelatine
1 cup cold water

In a large saucepan, crush berries. They will break down more as you increase the temperature. Add water and gelatin, mixing well. You can add any no-carb sweetener to taste.

Over medium heat, slowing increasing temperature, bring mixture to boiling while stirring constantly. Reduce heat to low and simmer for 2 minutes.

Finished jar, after an overnight in the fridge.

Pour into jars, allow to cool and then cover. If you leave it out at room temperature it will take a long time to gel, so don’t be discouraged if it’s very liquid for some time. Put in the refrigerator overnight and it will be the right consistency in the morning.

Can be stored in refrigerator for 1-2 weeks, or frozen.  It is not shelf-stable unless you process in a hot water bath (which I normally do for pectin jam), so keep this in the freezer for long-term storage. I would suggest stirring before using a new jar, as the fibrous skins and bits fall to the bottom.

Perfect jam consistency!

Per gram nutritional breakdown:
Total carbs: 0.058 g
Fiber:  0.021 g
Net carbs: 0.036 g
Protein: 0.02 g
Fat:  0.002 g

Per 10 gram serving:
Total carbs: 0.58 g
Fiber: 0.021 g
Net carbs: 0.37 g
Protein: 0.2 g
Fat: 0.02 g

Just compare that to berries alone: Raspberries are great at 0.056 net carbs per gram, and the jam beats them by 0.02 g net carbs. Blueberries have the most carbs, at 0.12 g net carbs per gram of blueberries, four times more carbs than the jam. I know, seems like small gains here, but cutting a bit more carbs means a bit more yummy food to eat. The ease and convenience of having the jam in the freezer or fridge meets all of my criteria for top Nora foods.

Now, to make a truly keto food: mixed berry cream cheese. I overshot the ratio here at 4.25:1, so it can be put atop a lower-ratio baked good and balance out for a perfect ratio treat. You could decrease the ratio by adding more jam or omitting the coconut oil. I’m always trying to sneak in coconut oil because Nora gets 15 g spread out throughout the day and I get tired of mixing it into other things at mealtime. This will be a regular breakfast food, containing 1 gram of coconut oil per 10 g serving.

Nutrition facts for 1 batch of mixed berry cream cheese. See blog post for per serving break down. Nutrition facts from www.caloriecount.com

Mixed Berry Cream Cheese

140 g Primrose cream cheese (adjust your nutrition facts for the brand that you use)
20 g coconut oil
50 g Mixed berry jam (above)

Mix with a hand mixer and serve!

Note that I also show the nutrition label for 1 full batch here so that you can see the fiber content. I calculate the per-gram and per-serving values with net carbs, but if I break it down into smaller servings in the recipe analyzer that I use, the fiber line gets dropped because it is so small.

Mixed berry cream cheese

Per gram nutrition information:
Total carbs:  0.025 g
Fiber:  0.005 g
Net carbs: 0.02 g
Protein:  0.052 g
Fat:  0.31 g

Per 10 g serving:
Total carbs: 0.25 g
Fiber: 0.05 g
Net carbs: 0.2 g
Protein: 0.52 g
Fat: 3.1 g

Good stuff. I love batch cooking. Nora loves jam and cream cheese.

As I have said before, efficiency is life. But that isn’t really the most important part of this food story. The most important part was finely expressed by Voltaire: “Nothing would be more tiresome than eating and drinking if God had not made them a pleasure as well as a necessity.”

And talk about the necessity of eating. Food is good medicine, quite literally for our keto-kids.

[Everybody now!] We all scream for ice cream!

Guess what! Ice cream is primarily made out of a main ingredient in the keto diet–heavy cream! Yay! And now the sad news: to be scoopable, the way ice cream should be, it needs sugar. That’s right, the big no-no. So how to make keto ice cream? This is where I have most read and enjoyed learning about food science. This blog entry should be called, “my mediocre attempts at making keto ice cream that Nora loves anyway.”

Harold McGee’s epic tome, On Food and Cooking, gives my favorite description of the pleasures of cream:

We value cream above all for its feel. Creaminess is a remarkable consistency, perfectly balanced between solidity and fluidity, between persistence and evanescense. It’s substantial, yet smooth and seamless. It lingers in the mouth, yet offers no resistance to teeth or tongue, nor becomes merely greasy. This luxurious sensation results from the crowding of the fat globules, which are far too small for our senses to distinguish, into a small volume of water, whose free movement is thus impeded and slowed. (p. 27-28)

Ice cream is a dish that manages to heighten the already remarkable qualities of cream. By freezing it, we make it possible to taste the birth of creaminess, the tantalizing transition from solidity to fluidity. (p. 39)

Doesn’t that make you want a perfect pint of ice cream? “To taste the birth of creaminess”…it doesn’t get any better than that. And now the science part:

Plain frozen cream is hard as a rock. Sugar makes it softer, but also lowers its freezing point (the dissolved sugar molecules get in the way as the water molecules settle into ordered crystals). (p. 39)

Sadly, I do not own this book (hint hint). I had it on hold at the Corvallis Library for 2 months before I got it, then could not renew it after my time because someone else had it on hold. This is a book originally published in 1984 and updated in 2004. Come on people of Corvallis, you’ve had 8 years to check it out. That says something about this town.

Armed with this knowledge, I moved on to making ice cream with a little help from our friends. Our friend Cora made some keto raspberry ice cream for Nora a few months back and we found out about the “hard as a rock” property. It was tasty, like raspberries and cream, but was solid. I put a butter knife through the side of a plastic container trying to chisel some out. It had a ratio of about 15:1 because she used cream and not many raspberries, so I hoped that the next attempt with many more berries to provide some natural sugar would be a bit softer, Harold’s predictions notwithstanding.

Last month we received an ice cream machine as a gift from our dear neighbors, Connie and Kevin. That gave me my chance to try ice cream for Nora and put some of my food science learning to work.

Raspberry Frozen Greek Yogurt Popsicle

The first recipe was a raspberry frozen Greek yogurt. I decided that Harold knew best, so trying something less conventional might yield better results. Greek yogurt has lots of protein and a decent amount of fat, but few carbs. Protein is also a key ingredient to finessing the texture of ice cream and I was hoping that enough protein would be a recipe for success.

The result was tangy with the flavor of Greek yogurt and had a lot more raspberries than the original recipe, so it was very tasty. But it still froze fairly solid.  If we let it thaw just enough we could give it a quick stir and get an ice cream-like consistency, but thaw too much and it was liquid. Alternatively, I froze it as popsicles. The only problem is weighing the amount of yogurt in each pop and keeping track of each one. But Nora managed to eventually eat the whole batch enthusiastically, about 20 g at a time.

Nutrition facts for 22 g of Raspberry Frozen Greek Yogurt. Nutrition analysis by www.caloriecount.com

Raspberry Frozen Greek Yogurt
200 grams raspberries (about 1.5 cups)
Pinch salt
340 g (1.5 cups) Traditional Plain Greek Yogurt
114 g (0.5 cups) English Double Devon Cream
1/4 tsp cinnamon
1 tsp pure vanilla extract

The nutrition facts are for 22 g, which is about 1 popsicle. You can see that 1.3 carbs is quite a bit at once and it has a 2:1 ratio, so this would have to be paired with other things in a snack to balance it out. It’s not ideal, but yielded fairly good results.

My next attempt was based on a recipe by David Lebovitz, chef and author of The Perfect Scoop. Ice cream expert! I wanted a mint ice cream recipe made with real mint, thinking that I could get great flavor without carbs. This one is the ticket, from his blog: http://www.davidlebovitz.com/2010/05/mint-chip-ice-cream-recipe-chocolate/

I made his version and a Nora-version. Oh my, was it wonderful. It calls for 80 g of mint leaves, which is a lot (believe me, I have a gram scale). I only had about 20 g in my garden that I could harvest, but a little went a long way in this recipe.

It’s a 2-day process, but I was able to follow the recipe once while making 2 versions with a little planning. I used half-and-half instead of whole milk, but otherwise did everything in the recipe EXCEPT adding the sugar: steeped the mint leaves in hot half-and-half and cream, then cooking in the egg yolks according to the recipe (below and at the link). Then I reserved some of the mixture for Nora and added a bit of her Cytra, which is sweetened with saccharine. I then added sugar to the portion for the rest of us while it was still warm so that the sugar would dissolve. Adding the sugar at the end did not affect the quality of the regular version, and I didn’t have to make the recipe twice. Then the mixtures must cool overnight.

Nora's Mint Chocolate Chip Ice Cream

The next day, I froze each version in the ice cream machine. Here is where I saw the importance of sugar firsthand. I put Nora’s version in first. The machine has a frozen bowl to chill the mixture and a rotating arm that scrapes it off the side of the bowl and mixes it so that large ice crystals are not able to form. When I make Nora’s ice cream in the machine, a thick icy-cream layer builds up on the side of the bowl that the rotating arm can’t scrape away. The portion in the middle freezes more like regular ice cream, so I stop the machine, scoop out the middle part, and then wash off the inside of the bowl.

If I am as quick as possible, the bowl is cold enough to make the sugared version immediately after, but just barely. When ice cream made with sugar goes in the machine, it is soft as it freezes and the machine can easily scrape the sides. It takes a lot longer to freeze, as you would expect from the additional sugar which lowers the freezing point of the mixture. Having 2 portions of the same recipe with and without sugar really demonstrated the point.

Nora licks her bowl clean. She spilled some on her shirt, and she tried to lick that too!

The grand finale of this recipe is the “chocolate chips.” I would have never thought of this if not for the Lebovitz recipe. I used a Green & Blacks 80% cocoa dark chocolate bar. Higher cocoa content means less sugar, hence fewer carbs, in the chocolate. Measure out the amount you will put in the keto ice cream (it only takes a few grams, at 0.28 carbs per gram of chocolate in those bars). It melts nicely in a small silicone pinch bowl in the microwave. While the ice cream is in the machine stirring, drizzle in a stream of melted chocolate. It freezes in tiny threads as it hits the cold ice cream. Mmmm, that’s something special. I did the same on some of Nora’s raspberry ice cream another time to give her a little chocolate on top. What a treat.

This ice cream was fabulous. The infusion of real mint leaves gave it an herbal minty quality. Next time I will try to use even more mint. I held back on the sugar so it was not overly sweet. I will definitely make this again, for all of us, when my mint patch recovers.

Nutrition information for 50 g of mint ice cream. Note the different serving size--do not compare directly with other ice cream recipes here. And note that chocolate is not included. Nutrition analysis from www.caloriecount.com

Keto Mint Chocolate Chip Ice Cream
240 g (1 cup) Organic Valley Half and Half
480 g (2 cups) Organic Valley Heavy Whipping Cream
Pinch of salt
85 g (5 large) egg yolks
80 g (2 cups packed) mint leaves

In a medium saucepan, warm the half-and-half, 240 g (1 cup) heavy cream, salt, and mint. Once the mixture is hot and steaming, remove from heat, cover, and let stand for an hour to infuse the mint flavor.

Remove the mint with a strainer, then press down with a spatula firmly to extract as much mint flavor and color as possible. Once the flavor is squeezed out, discard the mint.

Rewarm the infused milk. In a separate bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, then slowly pour some of the warm mint mixture into the yolks, whisking constantly, then scrape the warmed yolks back into the saucepan.

Cook the custard, stirring constantly with a heatproof spatula, until the mixture thickens and coats the spatula. If using an instant read thermometer, it should read around 170ºF (77ºC). Immediately stir the mixture into the remaining 240 g (1 cup) cream, then place over an ice bath until cool.

Refrigerate the mixture thoroughly, preferably overnight, then freeze it in your ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

From: http://www.davidlebovitz.com/2010/05/mint-chip-ice-cream-recipe-chocolate/

The nutrition information above is ONLY for the mint ice cream. The ice cream alone has a ratio of about 7:1, and only 0.7 carbs in a 50 g serving! You can add enough chocolate to reduce the ratio to the desired level. In the future, I will calculate the amount of chocolate I want to add per serving, measure that amount, then melt the chocolate in a silicone pinch bowl (be sure that your bowl is completely dry, as any water in the melted chocolate will cause it to seize and ruin the pourability). Pour the chocolate in threads on the serving of ice cream, stirring as you go. Wa-la, you have chocolate chips in your ice cream!

The last ice cream experiment was of the blueberry variety. It was a simple recipe, but turned out quite different than the rest.

Nutrition information for 3.5:1 Blueberry Ice Cream. Analysis provided by www.caloriecount.com

Blueberry Ice Cream
405 g (2.8 cups) fresh or frozen blueberries
720 g (3 cups) Organic Valley Heavy Whipping Cream
305 g (1.25 cups) whole milk

In addition to these ingredients, I again used Cytra to sweeten the mixture a bit, but you can use any no-carb sweetener you choose. Mix the sweetener in while you crush the berries. Then mix well with the cream and milk (I used a food processor). Then freeze in the ice cream machine.

Like the mint ice cream, I made it side-by-side with a sugar version and it turned out very differently. First, when I crushed the blueberries with sugar for the traditional recipe, the blueberries turned that keep purple-blue that I would expect from the blueberry skins. When I made Nora’s version, the Cytra did not extract the color from the blueberry skins in the same way. The mashed berries looked more green-gray with flecks of dark skin. I have not looked up the food science interaction that causes the color change in the presence of sugar, but I would love to know the secret.

Blueberry Ice Cream, 3.5:1 ratio

As with the mint ice cream recipe, Nora’s non-sugar version formed a thick frozen layer on the outside of the ice cream machine bowl. The sugared version did not do that. And the final product was quite different. Nora’s version froze absolutely solid. I have to chisel it out of the bowl to measure it, or melt it enough. If I chisel it out and mash it up, it has a very dry crystal quality about it, not at all creamy. It’s not unpleasant, but it is not like ice cream either. If you click on the picture to get a larger version, you can see that texture. It also melts quickly, so getting it in as fast as possible is key, although Nora takes care of that herself and licks the bowl clean!

Thus far, I’ve learned that cream alone does not make ice cream. Harold is right–how could I ever have doubted him. Taking sugar off the table, the recipes that included more protein were far more successful than the blueberry ice cream recipe, which was mostly cream and berries. I added whole milk there in order to get some of the milk protein, sugars and solids, but it was not enough to make a difference in the texture.

The custard-type ice creams that include egg yolks are a better bet, but also require a 2-day process because the egg yolks have to cook, then cool down enough to make the ice cream. It’s a plan-ahead endeavor, but the quality of the final product makes it worth it. I will also experiment more with Greek yogurt to see if I can get some better results. But this is all academic to Nora. If it’s called ice cream, she’s thrilled to have it.